Brant

2 Stars
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Slape Direct < First Amendment  |  Stroll On > Hangover >>


A great route in its lower parts. Start just above a collection of boulders below a V-groove. Most people only climb the first one or two pitches and abseil off.</br>1) 4c, 20m. Step off the blocks and climb into the sentry box. A committing step left onto the wall and a delicate traverse left lead to a juggy spike. Span left to the ledge and move left to below a short groove. Climb this to the holly tree and traverse left over blocks to the turret belay at the top of Brant Direct.</br>2) 4c, 15m. Traverse left from the belay and pass over the top of the corner of Brant Direct and enter the awkward V-groove to its left. Climb this short corner and head right along the ledge to belay in a corner almost directly above your belayer.</br>3) 4a, 40m. Head leftwards up the slab, passing a corner and aiming for the large yew tree. A further 4a pitch up the front of the buttress above can be climbed to top out. Alternatively a 60m abseil reaches the ground from here.
FA. J.Edwards, J.Barford 5.8.1940

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