<< None < Skylon | Unicorn > Lion >>
A classic route on this great crag.
1) 24m. Start as for Skylon, but traverse right from below the first overhang to a ramp and then continue right to a good ledge.
2) 20m. Climb a crack at the right-hand end of the ledge. Move up rightwards then gain a groove leading back left to a slab. This leads to a good ledge with a big spike belay. The direct version of this pitch, up a steep groove, is also possible at about the same grade.
3) 30m. From the right-hand end of the ledge, climb up pinnacles. Then tackle the superb wobbly-jug-infested wall above to the square-cut top. Belay well back.
FA. M.Ward, J.Barford, B.Pierre 1947
skylon deserves the 2 stars and top 50... wrinkle is over rated
hanger06 - 05/Apr/10
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