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Fantastic rock and positions make this a must-do route whatever grade you climb. Start about 15m along from where the base of the crag starts to rise, below a scruffy groove with large holly tree - Erosion Groove (HVS).</br>1) 15m. Climb the wide crack/groove to a ledge, then move left to a good belay.</br>2) 4a, 20m. Follow a well-trodden traverse-line left to the arete. Swing boldly onto the arete and follow the polished holds to a ledge. Take the short wall above to a sloping ledge to belay.</br>3) 4a, 20m. Climb up easily rightwards to a corner and follow it to about 2m before the roof. Make a tricky traverse left to finish up a short corner/crack onto a long terrace.
FA. J.M.Edwards, J.Joyce 14.7.1935