Erosion Groove Direct
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A tricky crux pitch on which good technique and a bit of arm power are needed.</br>1) 15m. Scramble up past a holly tree, then continue up the wall on the left to reach a stance on a large flake.</br>2) 5a, 20m. Gain the corner via some tricky moves and follow it, passing right of an overlap at 15m, to a good stance.</br>3) 5c, 20m. Gaining the groove is problematical and usually involves one's backside being wedged, but a wide crack above relents slightly, and hopefully leads to the top. It is possible to scramble easily rightwards and down (very exposed) to the tree belay on Shadow Wall and abseil off.
FA. D.Whillans, J.Brown 17.8.1955