Old Holborn

2 Stars
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Zangorilla < Trilon  |  None > None >>


A superbly-exposed finale makes this a tremendous outing, although it is high in the grade.</br>1) 4c, 27m. Start at a small rib flanked on both sides by grooves. Climb the groove on the right of the rib, then surmount the rib itself. From its top, move right onto a slanting rake. Follow this to belay in the holly trees.</br>2) 4c, 9m. Follow the short groove on the left side of the ledge, passing a detached flake to gain a large ledge and tree belay over to the left.</br>3) 5b, 27m. The pitch! A superbly-sustained groove above the belay leads to a step right. Pass a loose block with care to reach the large roof above. A wild monkey-swing through the roof gains a ledge on the left. Step back up and right towards the steep arete to small ledges and interesting belays.</br>4) 5a, 18m. Trend rightwards up the steep face with sparse protection.
FA. P.Crew, B.Ingle, D.Potts 5.1963

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