Old Holborn

2 Stars
Fluttery
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Shadow Wall < Yellow Crack  |  None > None >>


A superbly exposed finale makes this a tremendous outing.
1) 4c, 27m. Start at a small rib flanked on both sides by grooves. Climb the groove on the right of the rib, then surmount the rib itself. From its top, move right onto a slanting rake. Follow this to belay in the holly trees.
2) 4a, 9m. Follow the short groove on the left side of the ledge, passing a detached flake to gain a large ledge and tree belay.
3) 5b, 27m. THE pitch! A superbly sustained groove above the belay leads to a step right. Pass a loose block with care to reach the large roof above. A wild monkey-swing through the roof gains a hidden ledge. Follow the steep arete above to small ledges and interesting belays.
4) 4c, 18m. Trend rightwards up the steep face with sparse protection.
FA. P.Crew, B.Ingle, D.Potts 1963

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