Direct Route

Adjacent Routes
<< The Cracks < Lorraine  |  Super Direct > Diagonal >>

One for the well-rounded VS leader.
1) 4a, 15m. Scramble past the twin pinnacles and head up for 10m. Traverse left to belay as for Lorraine.
2) 4b, 25m. Go up and right, passing a blunt rib to reach a shallow groove. Climb this to a good belay in a bay.
3) 4c, 15m. Move up right to a diagonal crack. Hand traverse this to a step right onto a large ledge and flake belay.
4) 5b, 18m. The polished corner on the left leads desperately to flake cracks and a corner.
FA. C.Kirkus, J.Dodd 1930