Direct Route

3 Stars
 VS 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Lorraine Direct < GBH  |  Super Direct > Diagonal >>


One for the well-rounded VS leader, although some will find the entrance to the final pitch baffling.</br>1) 4a, 15m. From the toe of the buttress, scramble past the twin pinnacles and head up for 10m. Traverse left to belay as for Lorraine.</br>2) 4b, 25m. Go up and right, passing a blunt rib, to reach a crack leading to the base of a shallow groove. Climb this into the groove and follow it to a good belay in a bay.</br>3) 4c, 15m. Move up right to a diagonal crack. Make the infamous and enjoyable hand-traverse along this to a step right. Head up to cracks and onto a large ledge and flake/bollard belay.</br>4) 5b, 18m. Traverse left to the well-polished start of the corner. A desperate move off the ledge allows access to the easier flake cracks and a corner above.
FA. C.Kirkus, J.Dodd 22.6.1930

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 3
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