Super Direct

3 Stars
Technical
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< GBH < Direct Route  |  Diagonal > Zeta >>


Are you a slab-master or a crack-addict? You'll need both skills for this classic.</br>1) 4b, 30m. Start as for Direct Route. At the twin pinnacles, head right and traverse delicately above a rock scar. Move up to belay on a ledge 6m below an overhang.</br>2) 5b, 30m. One of the best slab pitches in Wales, and therefore the World! Climb past the small overhang to a good runner on Diagonal. Move up, then traverse left boldly to a thin crack. Follow this (technique required) up to the ledge on Direct Route, belay on the bollard below the small roof and crack.</br>3) 5b, 15m. Climb the bollard and pointed flake to gain the overlap. A stiff pull up and right gains the overhanging corner-crack. Power up this to the top.
FA. R.Evans, H.Pasquill 28.6.1974

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