Super Direct Top 50

3 Stars
Technical
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< GBH < Direct Route  |  Diagonal > Zeta >>


Are you a slab-master or a crack-addict? You'll need both skills for this classic.
1) 4b, 30m. Start as for Direct Route. At the twin pinnacles, head right and traverse delicately above a rock scar. Move up to belay on a ledge 6m below an overhang.
2) 5b, 30m. One of the best slab pitches in Wales, and therefore the World! Climb past the small overhang to a good runner on Diagonal. Move up, then traverse left boldly to a thin crack. Follow this (technique required) up to the ledge on Direct Route, belay on the bollard below the small roof and crack.
3) 5b, 15m. Climb the bollard and pointed flake to gain the overlap. A stiff pull up and right gains the overhanging corner-crack. Power up this to the top.
FA. R.Evans, H.Pasquill 28.6.1974

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  • Route Grade Votings

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