Black Spring

2 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< The Chain < Slow Ledge Climb  |  Plexus > Ten Degrees North >>


A good technical climb but P2 is often wet.
1) 4a, 15m. Climb up easy ground to the terrace.
2) 5a, 25m. Gain a crack from the left and follow it for 10m. Move left for 3m and follow pockets to a bulge and right to a cave.
3) 5a, 32m. Pass the overlap on the right and gain a steep slab on the right. Follow a shallow groove, then break left to a quartzy groove which leads to a large ledge.
4) 4a, 15m. Climb up broken ground to meet Slow Ledge Climb at the large flake.
5) 4c, 35m. Move up to a ledge and follow a crack on the left to a large roof. Traverse rightwards on jugs to belay at a junction with Slow Ledge Climb.
6) 40m. Slabby climbing leads to the top.
FA. M.Boysen, A.Williams 3.4.1965

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 3
    hard E1 0 of 1
    E1 0 of 1
    easy E1 0 of 1
    hard HVS 0 of 1
    HVS 1 of 1
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    easy VS 0 of 1
    hard 5b 0 of 1
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    easy 5b 0 of 1
    hard 5a 1 of 1
    5a 0 of 1
    easy 5a 0 of 1
    hard 4c 0 of 1
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