<< Slow Ledge Climb < Black Spring | Ten Degrees North > Nexus >>
Both technical and adventurous, the classic of the buttress is a superb route and, since the demise of the ancient peg, is now a slightly bolder affair.
1) 20m. Climb easily up a short groove to the large ledge. Follow the ledge leftwards and move up to a stance under the clean groove. There is an alternative direct start at 5a.
2) 5a, 20m. Follow the groove above to a bulge, pull over this and step right onto the clean slab. Climb the crack on the left until a traverse leftwards to the arete is possible. Continue to a good belay.
3) 5b, 25m. Move up and right to the weakest part of the capping roof. Turn the beefy roof and balance leftward into the corner. Move up, then traverse right onto a technical slab and continue to a ledge and perched block. Pass the block to gain a scoop, leave the scoop on its right side and continue diagonally left to a good stance.
4) 4b, 15m. Follow the line of least resistance up the final slabs.
FA. J.Ingle, P.Crew (2pts) 1962