Ten Degrees North
| E2 5c|
<< Black Spring < Plexus | Nexus > None >>
Simply the best crux sequence in the Llanberis Pass. Were you bamboozled?
1) 20m. As for Plexus pitch 1.
2) 5b, 10m. Climb a wall then head right (peg) to the groove. Follow this to reach technical moves to enter the scoop on the left. Belay on the slab.
3) 5c, 20m. Smear, palm and contort up the rounded groove to reach a small roof. Pass this on the right and climb up to a peg, then head to a small overhang and trend up and right to a good belay just right of the huge capping roof.
4) 5b, 10m. Move left and climb the flake to reach a traverse line leading left round the arete to join Plexus and belay at the perched block on pitch 3.
5) 4b, 20m. Climb the rest of pitch 3 and then pitch 4 of Plexus in one pitch.
FA. A.Sharp, J.Zangwill 1974
Very dirty after the appalling summer of 2012. Friction climbing on frictionless lichen? I fell off!
Jon Stewart - 07/Sep/12
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