Nexus

3 Stars
Technical
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Plexus < Ten Degrees North  |  The Windmill > None >>


The better of the two E1s, Nexus is an absolute classic and is a good stern test for any aspiring E1 leader. The rock is superb throughout.</br>1) 6m. Start as for Plexus, but belay on the first large ledge.</br>2) 5b, 30m. A long, sustained and superb pitch. Follow the slab just right of the large corner to the roof. Hand traverse leftwards under the roof to the corner. A bold move out to the arete gains a thread before pulling round the roof via the good layback-crack and gain the diagonal ramp. Follow this up and right to gain a sloping ledge on the right. Follow the short crack to a shallow groove - all quite technical and demanding - to a good stance just right of the huge roof (junction with Ten Degrees North).</br>3) 5b, 30m. Climb the slab on the right until the angle steepens, then move left onto a ledge. From the left end of the ledge traverse left along a horizontal break (tricky) to a swing round the arete. Belay in the scoop below a detached block on P3 of Plexus.</br>4) 4b, 20m. Climb the rest of P3 and then P4 of Plexus in one.
FA. M.Boysen, P.Nunn (1pt) 21.5.1963

USER COMMENTS

Well after doing many harder routes I still can not get up this as I can no way reach the arete to layback round it, so I think it is reachy. :(
Eagerandy - 15/Dec/11

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