Nexus

3 Stars
Technical
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Plexus < Ten Degrees North  |  The Windmill > None >>


The better of the two E1s, Nexus is an absolute classic and is a good stern test for any aspiring E1 leader. The rock is superb throughout.
1) 6m. Start as for Plexus, but belay on the first large ledge.
2) 5b, 30m. A long, sustained and superb pitch. Follow the slab just right of the large corner to the roof. Hand traverse leftwards under the roof to the corner. A bold move out to the arete gains a thread before pulling round the roof via the good layback-crack and gain the diagonal ramp. Follow this up and right to gain a sloping ledge on the right. Follow the short crack to a shallow groove - all quite technical and demanding - to a good stance just right of the huge roof (junction with Ten Degrees North).
3) 5b, 30m. Climb the slab on the right until the angle steepens, then move left onto a ledge. From the left end of the ledge traverse left along a horizontal break (tricky) to a swing round the arete. Belay in the scoop below a detached block on P3 of Plexus.
4) 4b, 20m. Climb the rest of P3 and then P4 of Plexus in one.
FA. M.Boysen, P.Nunn (1pt) 21.5.1963

USER COMMENTS

Well after doing many harder routes I still can not get up this as I can no way reach the arete to layback round it, so I think it is reachy. :(
Eagerandy - 15/Dec/11

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