<< Plexus < Ten Degrees North | None > None >>
Perhaps the best out of the three routes, Nexus is an absolute classic and is a good stern test for any aspiring E1 leader. The rock is superb throughout.
1) 6m. Start as for Plexus, but belay on the first large ledge.
2) 5b, 30m. A long, sustained and superb pitch. Follow the slab just right of the large corner to the roof. Hand traverse leftwards under the roof to the arete (thread). Pull round the roof via the good layback-crack and gain the diagonal ramp. Follow this up and right to gain a sloping ledge on the right. Follow the short crack to a shallow groove leading to a good stance just right of the huge roof (junction with Ten Degrees North).
3) 5b, 12m. GUIDEBOOK INCORRECT. Climb the slab on the right until the angle steepens, then move left onto a ledge. Traverse left along a horizontal break (tricky) to a swing round the arete. Belay in the scoop.
4) 4b, 20m. Climb the rest of pitch 3 and then pitch 4 of Plexus in one pitch.
FA. M.Boysen, P.Nunn (1pt) 1963
Well after doing many harder routes I still can not get up this as I can no way reach the arete to layback round it, so I think it is reachy. :(
Eagerandy - 15/Dec/11
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