Bamford Wall

2 Stars
 S 4a

Adjacent Routes
<< The Happy Wanderer < Reach  |  Bamford Buttress > Busy Day at Bamford >>


Climb the slanting flake then move right to a crack. Up this to niche then follow a tin crack ledges. Move back out left for a reachy exposed finale if required. Some care is needed with the protection as wires in the niche tend to lift out.
FA. Hugh Banner 1960

USER COMMENTS

Seconded this barefoot, lovely juggy moves and good rest ledges, A bit of a worrying move of the last ledge!
Jon Greengrass - 01/Apr/04

This is one of the finest severes in the peak, no question
Matt G - 26/May/05

oooh my first Severe, totally recommended and just lovely - really really really lovely! :)
fizz - 06/Jun/05

A fine route - seconded it, then led it. And you can do it in 2 pitches if you want (as per the couple who went up after I'd led it - there is a reachy move (if you are under 5ft 6in) moving off the massive ledge at just below half height. My second (5ft 4in) wasn't happy with that bit.

I loved it though. My 5th Severe lead - and I know it wasn't onsight - but hoping to get a good foundation, and I'd say this is a good beginner's Severe lead...
Dominion - 07/Aug/05

First ever lead and what a great climb. Lots of gear available if you need it, much fun as you like.
Grant Wilding - 16/Nov/05

This was my last climb of the day and what a good climb it was and plenty of gear if you need it.
Paul Tomo - 24/Jul/07

Nice. Lots of hidden side pulls to.. er.. pull on.
Dave Foster - 15/Jul/08

Absolutely fantastic route. The crux is a bit harder, less secure and requires more thought if you are short.

Solid at the grade.
Alastair - 01/Sep/08

Judging from the chalk and scratches, most people start up Bamford Buttress on this - just as good really. Worth mentioning the ledge at the top of the initial flake since leaving this is the crux for most.
Alan James - 28/Jun/09

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 144
    hard HS 0 of 49
    HS 0 of 49
    easy HS 3 of 49
    hard S 14 of 49
    S 30 of 49
    easy S 2 of 49
    hard HVD 0 of 49
    HVD 0 of 49
    easy HVD 0 of 49
    hard 4b 0 of 47
    4b 0 of 47
    easy 4b 1 of 47
    hard 4a 4 of 47
    4a 38 of 47
    easy 4a 4 of 47
    hard 3c 0 of 47
    3c 0 of 47
    easy 3c 0 of 47
    3 Stars 8 of 48
    2 Stars 33 of 48
    1 Star 7 of 48
    0 Stars 0 of 48
    Bag of ..... 0 of 48

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.