The Black Gates
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A great and often forgotten route that takes in some superb settings with some strenuous climbing. Start 15m right of the fallen block at a faint groove, down and right of the pinnacles.
1) 10m. Climb the groove for 10m to reach a stance below large boulders.
2) 35m. Surmount the boulders to gain a niche below a towering pinnacle. Struggle out of the niche and follow a crack to the top of the pinnacle on the left. Continue for 5m, then belay.
3) 12m. Follow the corner for 3m and make a breath-taking step round the corner to reach a ledge on the left. Climb the wall, pass a ledge and continue to a second ledge to belay.
4) 10m. Move to the left edge of the ledge and climb the chimney for 6m. Head right and up for 10m over easy ground to reach another chimney.
5) 20m. Climb the traditional chimney, complete with chockstone, to gain a ledge on the right. Finish up the slab via the corner crack at the left end. Not in current guidebook.
FA. G.Mallory 1915