Main Wall Top 50

3 Stars
 HS 4b

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One of the classic, must-do routes of the UK, but not a route to be underestimated. Although never desperate, the route finding is testing. Scramble up rightwards to below and left of a triangular overhang which is below a grassy terrace.</br></br>1) 4a, 20m. Follow the well-travelled slab up and left to a ledge at 10m. Climb a short corner for 3m and move right across a slab, round a rib and up to a stance on a pulpit.</br>2) 4b, 25m. Follow the tricky rightward-leaning gangway to a chimney groove, climb this for a few metres, often damp, then traverse left on a ledge to reach a corner and blunt arete overlooking the large gully.</br>3) 4a, 15m. Climb the blunt arete and move diagonally right to the left-hand end of a large triangular ledge in a corner.</br>4) 4b, 20m. The big pitch, which is a little loose in places. Drop down a little way, then climb up the pinnacle on the left. From the top of the pinnacle, step left onto the steep wall. Pull up into a niche and head round the corner on the left to gain a steep arete. Follow this until it is possible to step left across the chimney and gain a short slab.</br>5) 4a, 25m. The out-there slab. Move up to an overhang, then step across left, passing a broken chimney to gain the base of a big slab that overlooks the large gully. Climb the exposed left edge of the slab on good holds to a stance.</br>6) 30m. Climb leftwards to a ledge, follow the slab on the right then scramble up easy ground to finish.
FA. P.Roberts, J.Cooke 27.7.1935


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