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One of the classic, must-do routes of the UK, but not a route to be underestimated. Scramble up rightwards to below and left of a triangular overhang which is below a grassy terrace.
1) 4a, 20m. Follow the well-travelled slab up and left to a ledge at 10m. Climb a short corner for 3m and move right across a slab, round a rib and up to a stance on a pulpit.
2) 4b, 25m. Follow the tricky rightward-leaning gangway on the right to reach Subsidiary Grooves. Follow this for a few metres, then traverse left on a ledge to reach a corner and blunt arete overlooking the large gully. Gear at foot level for the belay.
3) 4a, 15m. Climb the blunt arete and move diagonally right to a triangular ledge in a corner.
4) 4b, 25m. The big pitch! Drop down a little way, then climb up the pinnacle on the left. From the top of the pinnacle, step left onto the steep wall. Pull up into a niche and head round the corner on the left to gain a steep arete. Follow this until it is possible to step across the chimney and gain a short slab.
5) 4a, 25m. Move up to an overhang, then step across left, passing a broken chimney to gain the base of a large slab that overlooks the large gully. Climb the exposed left edge of the slab on good holds to a stance.
6) 30m. Climb leftwards to a ledge, follow the slab on the right, scramble up easy ground to finish.
FA. P.Roberts, J.Cooke 1935