 Lubyanka
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Adjacent Routes
<< Main Wall < Subsidiary Grooves | The Grooves > None >>
A fantastically bold and exposed route with some technical climbing and a grand finale.
1 and 2) 4b, 45m. As for Main Wall.
3) 5c, 18m. Climb the groove above the stance, enter from the left to belay in a bay.
4) 5b, 15m. Follow the corner behind the bay, exit right and go down to a spike belay.
5) 5c, 20m. Go directly up the slab, pass an overlap to gain a short corner. Climb this to a tricky exit left onto a short slab and a ledge.
6) 5c, 22m. Rail rightwards along the break above the void and make a tough move to get stood up just left of the arete. Climb the groove above past a roof onto easier ground.
FA. E.Cleasby, J.Eastham, R.Matheson 1976
USER COMMENTS
Really enjoyable with some good climbing and a crux right where tit should be at the top and it needs thinking about. BUT why no THE SKULL ?? A very very fine outing in my opinion, I enjoyed it more and found it harder.
Eagerandy - 15/Dec/11
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