Lubyanka

3 Stars
Fluttery
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Main Wall < Subsidiary Grooves  |  The Skull > The Grooves >>


A fantastic bold and exposed route with some technical climbing and a grand finale.
1) and 2) As for Subsidiary Grooves.
3) 5c, 18m. Climb the technical groove above the stance which is best gained from the left. Belay in a large triangular bay.
4) 5b, 15m. Follow the corner behind the bay, exit right and go down to a spike belay.
5) 5c, 20m. Go directly up the slab, pass an overlap to gain a short corner. Climb this to a tricky exit left onto a short slab and a ledge.
6) 5c, 22m. A bold and scary pitch. Hand traverse the quartz rail rightwards above the void to the arete. A little further round the corner is a pocket for a cam placement that offers limited protection for the difficult step up from just right of the arete. Climb the groove above on rather poor gear, first on its left, then step right across it just below a roof. Turn the roof onto easier ground.
FA. E.Cleasby, J.Eastham, R.Matheson 21.8.1976

USER COMMENTS

Really enjoyable with some good climbing and a crux right where tit should be at the top and it needs thinking about. BUT why no THE SKULL ?? A very very fine outing in my opinion, I enjoyed it more and found it harder.
Eagerandy - 15/Dec/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 3
    hard E4 0 of 1
    E4 0 of 1
    easy E4 0 of 1
    hard E3 0 of 1
    E3 1 of 1
    easy E3 0 of 1
    hard E2 0 of 1
    E2 0 of 1
    easy E2 0 of 1
    hard 6a 0 of 1
    6a 0 of 1
    easy 6a 0 of 1
    hard 5c 1 of 1
    5c 0 of 1
    easy 5c 0 of 1
    hard 5b 0 of 1
    5b 0 of 1
    easy 5b 0 of 1
    3 Stars 1 of 1
    2 Stars 0 of 1
    1 Star 0 of 1
    0 Stars 0 of 1
    Bag of ..... 0 of 1

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