Horned Crag Route

Adjacent Routes
<< Arete Climb < Subsidiary Slab  |  Paradise > Avalanche/Red Wall/Longland's Continuation >>

One of the first routes climbed on the cliff, and a real mountaineering adventure. Start on the far left of Heather Shelf.
1) 20m. Climb up blocky terrain and traverse leftwards to belay beneath the big corner.
2) 27m. Climb the corner until it is possible to step left onto the prow. Follow this to a vegetated ledge.
3) 30m. Climb the broader rib above to another, larger heather-ledge.
4) 30m. Climb the wall to reach the vague chimney on its right-hand side. Ascend this, and follow a quartz band rightwards to a ledge.
5) 23m. Scramble up to belay on the left end of the grassy ledge, beneath the Horns.
6) 20m. The groove above leads to another, steeper groove. Climb this until a move rightwards leads to the base of the slab below the horns.
7) 8m. Climb the slab. From here 100m of exposed scrambling leads to the summit.
FA. J.Thompson, O.Eckenstein 1905