Paradise

1 Stars
 HS 4a

Adjacent Routes
<< Bowling for Columbine < Horned Crag Route  |  Avalanche/Red Wall/Longland's Continuation > The Sword/Route 2 >>


A sustained outing leading to the classic scramble of Terminal Arete. Start just left of the main central section of Heather Shelf.
1) 4a, 40m. Scramble up to Heather Shelf and a rock spike at its left-hand end. Follow the groove, forking right at its junction, to reach a ledge. A quartz band on the right leads to a stance below a grass ledge.
2) 4a, 23m. A short groove up and left bypasses an overhang. Climb to the ledge above and belay below a prominent V-groove.
3) 4a, 25m. Step out leftwards and climb the slab until moves back right lead to another ledge above the last belay.
4) 30m. Traverse rightwards to below an arete that is above a quartzy wall. Climb up this to a stance level with the grassy ledge on the left.
5) 30m. Follow the arete, flecked with ribbons of quartz, to a spike belay.
6) 35m. Easy climbing leads up and rightwards to a stance above the left-hand tip of the Great Terrace, below the...
Terminal Arete
7), 8), 9) and 10) 120m. From here, you continue up the arete in 4 long pitches. The climbing is Diff or less, but it is recommended that you remain roped up unless you feel confident and experienced enough to move together.
FA. H.Jones, R.Backwell 23.9.1909

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