Avalanche/Red Wall/Longland's Continuation Top 50

Adjacent Routes
<< Horned Crag Route < Paradise  |  Terminator > The Sword/Route 2 >>

A route that is steeped in history, and the classic of the buttress. Start below the right-hand end of Heather Shelf. Photo on page 109.
1) 20m. Follow the groove to Heather Shelf.
2) 30m. Climb diagonally rightwards onto a face, then climb upwards to belay 4m left of a prominent spike, level with a dog-leg in the corner off to the right.
3) 15m. Climb up to belay left of a quartz band.
4) 25m. Move right and climb the quartz band. The groove above leads to moves rightwards to gain some ledges. Move onto the right-hand side of the rib to the right and climb it to a spike belay.
5) 33m. A vegetated groove up and right leads to a tall, thin block.
6) 33m. A scramble rightwards along a shelf leads to a stance on the Great Terrace.
7) 4a, 24m. (The start of Red Wall). Move rightwards to a grassy groove. Climb this to a hard move onto a rib leading to some good ledges. Belay at the bottom of a deep groove pointing towards the top of Terminal Arete.
8) 4a, 30m. Climb up a rib, passing a pinnacle on the right to a ledge. Climb the short wall to the Green Gallery.
9) 10m. Climb leftwards to belay about 10m left of the huge gully.
10) 25m. (The start of Longland's Continuation) Climb the left arete of a steep face to a hollow. A jammed block leads rightwards to a slab. Climb the slab, trending rightwards after 6m and pass another slab to belay in a grassy slot.
11) 30m. Follow a rib on the right to belay beneath a steep slab.
12) 4b, 15m. The final pitch is the crux slab! It can be climbed direct, or trend left at half height.
FA. J.Thompson, E.Reynolds FA. (Longland's) J.Longland 1929