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The modern route up the buttress. Start at a rib leading up the left-hand side of the face beneath Birch Tree Terrace.
1) 5a, 30m. Climb the rib (bold) to Birch Tree Terrace. Belay beneath a steep groove.
2) 5b, 50m. Climb onto the slab via a block on the right. Climb straight up to reach a belay in some quartzy niches.
3) 5a, 25m. An overhanging groove leads to easier climbing. Follow the grain of the cliff to belay at the base of a corner/groove.
4) 35m. Climb past the groove on its left and belay at the prominent square block.
5) 5b, 35m. weave your way up the wall above, trending into the left-hand groove. Follow it for around 18m to a grassy ledge with a large block. Mount the block and climb the wall behind to the base of Terminal Arete.
7) and 8) 120m. Follow Terminal Arete (D) to the summit. Not in current guidebook.
FA. J.Hope, K.Neal 1990