The Sword/Route 2
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A fine, open route leading to Great Terrace, from where a choice of finishes is available. After a hard first pitch, the rest is only VDiff. Start by heading up to the base of the crag and scrambling right along a quartz break to a short groove to the right of a rib.
1) 4c, 55m. Climb the corner to an overlap, then move leftwards to a ledge. Climb the rib above directly, past 'the Quartz Babe' to belay 5m after the Babe's tip.
2) 20m. Continue easily to a bollard belay.
3) 14m. Climb up and right from the top of the tallest block to some big holds, then move easily back left to belay on a ledge beneath a groove.
4) 40m. Follow the groove, passing a possible belay at 12m, before moving right into another groove that leads, eventually, to a small ledge.
5) 30m. Easy climbing leads to the Great Terrace. From here, pick a finish up Terminal Arete, or Avalanche/Red Wall.
FA. (The Sword) J.Edwards, J.Buzzard, F.Champion 8.1938
FA. (Route 2) J.Thopmson, O.Eckstein 1904