<< Mossy Slab < Gashed Crag | Overlapping Ridge Route > Pinnacle Rib Route >>
An adventurous mountain route high on the side wall of South Gully that is no pushover. The route is gained by scrambling up or abseiling down South Gully to reach a large grassy ledge to the left of a rock rib.
1) 4c, 30m. From the ledge, step down and follow the right-most groove to reach a steep narrow slab (possible belay). Climb the slab to a hard move to reach the right-hand edge. Belay with care.
2) 5a, 18m. From the right-hand block, boldly gain the nose on the left. Continue left to gain Teufel's Crack. Follow this to a belay on a grassy rake.
3) 15m. Easily up the rake to belay behind the large block.
4) 4b, 38m. Climb a vague groove right of the block. Move left to a crack and follow this to a ledge. Gain a steep crack on the right to reach the top.
FA. H.Teufel, H.Sedlmayr, J.Jenkins (2pts) 1.7.1936
Think the crux on the first pitch is 5a. The step up onto the nose felt more like 4b/4c.
Simon - 06/Sep/10
Changed from VS 5a ** to HVS 5a **, no votes
ROCKFAX - 11/Oct/13
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