Grooved Arete Top 50

3 Stars
 VD

Adjacent Routes
<< Pinnacle Rib Route < Belle Vue Bastion  |  Boot Crack > Crazy Horse >>


One of the best and most popular routes of its grade in the UK. Start beneath the well-worn corner with the letters 'GA' scratched on the rock.
1) 30m. Climb the corner for 12m, make a move rightwards and then trend left up the slab above to gain a rib leading to a large spike belay.
2) 30m. Step left and follow the prominent rib to a good stance below a corner with a capping roof.
3) 50m. Climb the corner on the right-hand side, passing the awkward capping roof on the right side. Continue more easily leftwards and scramble up to a path.
4) 15m. Walk rightwards along the path to belay at the well-used rocky rib.
5) 38m. Start on the right of the rib and climb up and leftwards to gain the groove above. Follow this until a step left gains a steeper continuation-groove. Climb this until a move leftwards gains a good ledge, block belay well back.
6) 18m. The infamous 'Knight's Move' pitch. How's your chess? Climb the crack behind the belay to reach the slab above. Exit this slab in the top right corner, step round the arete to find a comfortable stance.
7) 20m. Romp up the corner above the belay to reach a good stance.
8) 30m. Head right and climb the steep rock to an ever easing finish. An escape rightwards is easy if the weather is bad or darkness is closing in.
FA. E.Steeple, G.Barlow, A.Doughty, H.Bowron, A.Woodhead 1911

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