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A classic outing, described here with a more-direct start up the crack. The original start climbs the diagonal corner on the left.
1) 32m. Start at the polished finger-crack in the centre of the slab. Follow this to gain the diagonal overlap which is followed rightwards to a niche. Gain the slab on the left and make a tricky manoeuvre onto the large ledge.
2) 30m. Climb the large cracked groove behind the belay to reach a large flake. Move left and continue up the groove, moving left again to reach the large bay. If in doubt follow the polish!
3) 12m. The crux chimney! Squirm up the chimney at the back of the bay. Some holds on the right wall might be useful. An alternative, easier finish climbs the wall on the right.
FA. G.Barlow, H.Priestley-Smith 1910