Slab Route

2 Stars
 VD

Adjacent Routes
<< Hawk's Nest Arete < Hawk's Nest Buttress  |  Direct Route > Kaya >>


A neat excursion spiralling up the left-hand side of the face. The route has long been popular with beginners. It is described with the Spiral Variant which avoids the tricky slab on the direct version of P2 and 3. Start just left of the block of The Capstan, below a broken rib.
1) 15m. Up the rib then move across left to a stance below a chimney with twin 'horns'.
2) 10m. Gain the chimney on the left awkwardly then up and exit leftwards to a stance.
3) 10m. Climb to a ledge then up the tricky crack on the right to a belay.
4) 12m. Move right 3m to a slab and up to the jammed flake of the Arch and a junction with the The Direct Route just before its famous hand traverse.
5) 14m. Up the groove on the left on huge flakes to a leftwards exit to an airy stance.
6) 12m. Finish up the rib to reach the top.
FA. K.Ward, H.Gibson 1907

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