Direct Route

Adjacent Routes
<< Route I < Slab Climb  |  Lot's Wife > Lot's Groove >>

A classic outing, varied and interesting with a devious but logical line. Popular and with only a couple of hard section - the hand traverse on P4 and the final pitch
1) 4a, 28m. Climb up the rib and cross over right beneath some blocks. Climb up through these to a grassy ledge with a huge bollard
2) 4a, 20m. Climb the corner, then move delicately leftwards out across the face beneath before striding round the arete to the jammed flake of the Arch. Belay further left.
2a) Gibson's Chimney, VS 4c, 16m. Good but bold towards the top
3) 4b, 20m. Gain a ledge on the right then move up and swing across the hand traverse to ledges above Gibson's Chimney. Continue to a good stance on the ledge of Veranda
4) 4c, 20m. Move right along the ledge to the finish; the wide awkward Coffin Chimney and superb groove of the Final Crack, a good effort for 1907.
4a) VDiff,18m. The Winter Finish. Move left along the flakes and up the corner to the top.
FA. K.Ward, H.Gibson