Direct Route

3 Stars
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Hawk's Nest Buttress < Slab Route  |  Kaya > Lot's Wife/Left-hand Crack >>


A classic outing, varied and interesting with a devious but logical line. Very popular and it only has a couple of hard sections - the hand traverse on P3 and the final pitch. Start directly above the large conspicuous block of The Capstan.
1) 4a, 28m. Climb up the rib and cross over left beneath some blocks. Climb up through these rightwards to a grassy ledge with a huge bollard.
2) 4a, 20m. Climb the corner on the left then move delicately leftwards out across the face before striding round the arete to the jammed flake of The Arch. Belay further left.
3) 4b, 20m. Gain a ledge on the right then move up and swing across the hand-traverse to ledges above Gibson's Chimney. Continue to a good stance on the ledge of The Veranda.
4) 8m. Move the belay to the right-hand end of The Veranda to below the final corner.
4a) 18m. The Winter Finish, VDiff. A variant ending. Move left along the flakes and up the corner to the top.
5) 4c, 20m. Climb up right behind the large spike, then move back left to below the wide awkward Coffin Chimney and superb groove of Final Crack. Do battle with these and wonder at the pioneers who did it back in 1907!
FA. K.Ward, H.Gibson 1907

USER COMMENTS

Changed from HS 4b *** to VS 4c ***, no votes
ROCKFAX - 11/Oct/13

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    hard HVS 0 of 0
    HVS 0 of 0
    easy HVS 0 of 0
    hard VS 0 of 0
    VS 0 of 0
    easy VS 0 of 0
    hard HS 0 of 0
    HS 0 of 0
    easy HS 0 of 0
    hard 5a 0 of 0
    5a 0 of 0
    easy 5a 0 of 0
    hard 4c 0 of 0
    4c 0 of 0
    easy 4c 0 of 0
    hard 4b 0 of 0
    4b 0 of 0
    easy 4b 0 of 0
    3 Stars 0 of 0
    2 Stars 0 of 0
    1 Star 0 of 0
    0 Stars 0 of 0
    Bag of ..... 0 of 0

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.