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The character building rifts on the right can be climbed in as many as six short pitches. Start 3m right of the large 'Capstan' block.
1) 30m. Climb the rib and crack as for Lot's Wife then move right into the base of the mighty rift below the overhangs.
2) 18m. Up the chasm until an exit right is possible. Head left over blocks back to the gully.
3) 15m. A crack on the left leads to flakes. Go behind these then back right into the gully.
4) 20m. Do battle with the jaws of the Vertical Vice then finish up the corner above.
4a) 25m. If the Vertical Vice shuts you down a devious escape can be made. Move up into the slot on the left. Tunnel in along the passage to where the chasm turns a corner. Head round this and chimney up the easier slot to be reborn on the top of the crag.
FA. J.Thompson, H.Jones, L.Noon 1910