<< Suicide Wall Route 2 < Penal Servitude | Tennis Shoe Direct Start > Ordinary Route >>
A superb route, perched above the steep East Wall. Great positions and rock, though a bit polished in places. Start left of the main slab at a smaller slab tucked in against its edge.
1) 4a, 30m. Climb the subsidiary slab, on polished holds, to a stance on the ledge at its top.
2) 16m. Move right up a scoop onto the main slab and climb its edge to a good ledge.
3) 15m. Continue up the slab to a large flake. Belay here or just left in the open gully.
4) 35m. Climb up the gully then transfer to the rib on the left. Climb this on its left edge to a ledge.
5) 40m. Easier climbing leads to a grass terrace. Walk left to below the final rock tower.
6) 4b, 15m. Climb up past a scoop (delicate and slippery) to gain the slab above. Pull for glory over the perched block to finish! There is an oft-climbed easier alternative to the right.
FA. N.Odell 8.1919. Climbed in his pumps!