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The easiest route here gives a memorable trip up the trench in the slab and 'goes' in all weather.
1) 45m. Follow the well-worn boot-crack to a massive wedged block. Climb over this to a good ledge on the left and a belay.
2) 45m. Take the left-hand groove for a few metres until a delicate traverse leads back right to a rightwards-trending line of weakness. Follow this until it cuts back left and belay on one of the numerous small ledges.
3) 25m. Follow the polished crack to the large ledge and various belays.
4) 25m. Head left for 8m then back right to the terrace below the upper walls. You can climb direct here which is slightly harder.
FA. T.Rose, C.Moss 23.8.1897