<< Plumbagin < Aura | Amadeus > Agrippa >>
Another stunning classic with sustained difficulties and breath-taking exposure at the grade. Care is needed to protect the second adequately on the devious and exposed crux pitch.
1) 4b, 12m. Climb up to the left side of the large grassy ledge. Walk along the ledge and belay beneath the flakes and corner.
2) 4c, 32m. Climb the wall above the belay to gain the base of the large corner system. Follow this until a hand-traverse line leads rightwards along the highest of two parallel ledges to a tough step-down. Follow an easing diagonal line rightwards to an awkward semi-hanging stance.
3) 4c, 18m. Drop down rightwards from the stance and head right again under the roof to reach a ledge. Climb up and left, past an arete, to gain a grassy stance.
4) 4c, 22m. Climb the groove above to gain the short cracked wall. Climb the crack.
FA. A.Moulam, J.Churchill 26.4.1952