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This long and intricate route weaves a complex line up a steep wall. The climbing is sustained with plenty of hard moves interspersed with good rests but it is thin on gear. High in the grade. Photo on page 168
1) 4c, 21m. Climb a steep crack to a ledge. Follow the slim groove above then easier ground back leftwards to a good stance
2) 5a, 23m. A complex pitch. Climb a steep crack and wall to good ledges. Balance precariously right then pull up to the base of a scoop. Climb the groove above to a peg, then swing right to the arete.
FA. C.Jones, A.Jones, A.Daffern (1 pt) 1960
Top pitch: complex? Not sure how you could go off-line. The lower traverse is 5a but boldish, the upper swing right is nearer to gear but mentally harder. Feels shorter than 23m. Classic.
Nick Learmont - 27/Apr/13
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