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The final classic in the trio and the best. The first pitch is nicely intricate and the second is a stupendous jug-haul in a situation normally reserved for routes around three grades harder
1) 4b, 20m. Climb the slim groove to its top, then pull slightly right onto the steep wall which leads to a large grassy ledge
2) 5a, 23m. Pull up leftwards on some good spike holds. Arrange gear then make a long move to more good holds. Hang on here to get some gear in, or move quickly up and right if you are tired, where the gear is easier to place. Climb up and then left on magnificent holds to finish up a corner. The grade of VS 5a is a little deceptive and those with long arms will probably find it easier than 5a, and those who tire quickly on steep ground may find it harder than VS!
FA. R.James, K.Forder, I.Campbell 1961
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