<< Lord of the Flies < Right Wall | Ivy Sepulchre > Grond >>
The easiest of the three E1s, but no push-over. The route can be split in two at the girdle ledge, but is best enjoyed as one of the finest 50m pitches in Wales.
1) 5b, 35m. Climb the slab up and left to reach the base of the wide crack. Enter the steep wide crack and follow this to reach a good resting ledge at 18m. Climb direct to the Girdle Ledge.
2) 5a, 15m. Step right and follow the crack to easier climbing on the arete.
2a) The Grim Jim Finish, E2 5b, 15m. Fire up the crack directly above the belay.
FA. J.Brown, D.Whillans 30.9.1951
First proper E1 onsight. Very easy technically, but sustained and a bit goey just before the ledge. Loads of good gear and can be done in one pitch on 60's - It's one off those climbs that everyone should do once.
Mark Reed - 08/Aug/14
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