Heart of the Sun

3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Loose
 E2 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Urizen < Shangri-La  |  Freddie > Ben >>


A massive, steep slab shoots skywards from the boulder beach of Slab Cove and presents an irresistible challenge. The cliff suffers from intermittent rockfall and the route has altered considerably over the years, and unfortunately the top pitch is now much poorer than it was. The first pitch requires a large rack of wires. Start to the left of the lower overhangs at a thin crack..
1) 5c, 50m. Climb to and through the lower overlaps with difficulty and move up right to gain a thin crack (this first section has also been climbed starting in the small corner just to the right at a similar grade). Follow the thin crack past a bulge and on up to a horizontal break. Move right and then climb up rightwards to the start of a thin crack-system. Superbly-sustained climbing up this gains a hanging belay at a horizontal break..
2) 5a, 50m. Climb up the right-leaning diagonal crack a little way to a thin break which is climbed up leftwards to below a long, loose and grassy groove at the left end of a diagonal overlap (belay possible). Climb the right arete of the groove and finish with care..
2a) 5c, 50m. A harder, but loose and serious finish is possible by continuing up the diagonal crack to just short of the vegetated corner, from where a very loose and serious traverse left under the diagonal overlap can be made to join the finish as described.
FFA. Arnis Strapcans, Chris King 2.1977 (The start and finish has changed over time)
FAA. Tony Willmott, Mike Spring 19.10.1969

USER COMMENTS

No comments on this route. Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    hard E3 0 of 0
    E3 0 of 0
    easy E3 0 of 0
    hard E2 0 of 0
    E2 0 of 0
    easy E2 0 of 0
    hard E1 0 of 0
    E1 0 of 0
    easy E1 0 of 0
    hard 6a 0 of 0
    6a 0 of 0
    easy 6a 0 of 0
    hard 5c 0 of 0
    5c 0 of 0
    easy 5c 0 of 0
    hard 5b 0 of 0
    5b 0 of 0
    easy 5b 0 of 0
    3 Stars 0 of 0
    2 Stars 0 of 0
    1 Star 0 of 0
    0 Stars 0 of 0
    Bag of ..... 0 of 0

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.