| VS 4c|
<< Marion < In Her Eyes | Midnight Cowboy > Long Rock Eliminate >>
The first few moves are a Baggy legend, but unfortunately the upper pitch lets the route down. The first pitch provides an excellent alternative to the first pitch of Midnight Cowboy, should the tide be in. Start by abseiling or downclimbing the descent ridge to a small ledge, about 12m above the base of the zawn. Opposite is a small flat spike that touches the edge of the overhanging zawn wall..
1) 4c, 20m. Not a pitch for the short!
Fall across the zawn to reach the spike and pull across on good holds. Move steeply up to the edge of the slab and pull around onto it. Move right and slightly upwards to a peg before traversing 7m right, either high or low, to a stance on a small sloping reddy/brown ledge. Belay on good wires..
2) 4b, 34m. Reverse the traverse back left to the peg, and climb up above it heading for a square-cut flake with an old thread. Before reaching the flake, move leftwards on the best rock and then take the cleanest line above with care to a stake belay.
FA. Dave Johnston, Ben Wintringham 19.10.1969
The top pitch isn't too bad, and is cleaner and more secure than the finishes of either Midnight Cowboy or Sexilegs
chris_moor - 27/Sep/10
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