Midnight Cowboy Top 50
| HVS 5b|
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The finest route on the The Promontory following the mid-height diagonal overlap via sustained and intricate climbing. If the tide is in the main pitch can be gained using the excellent first pitch of Kinkyboots. Start 4m right of the arete at the base of the slab..
1) 4c, 19m. Climb up left easily to a thin crack just left of a narrow corner. Follow the cracks to a small, sloping stance on a reddy/brown ledge. Belay on good wires..
2) 5b, 20m. Move up and right, above the overlap, for 3m and then make a tricky move back down right to good holds beneath it. Traverse right to a small flake on the slab before moving up to and following the overlap right until it breaks horizontally right. Climb the crack for 4m to a small stance. Belay on good wires..
3) 4b, 28m. Follow the crack until vegetated ground is reached. Pick a way up this with care. Belay on a stake if in place or walk back over the broad ridge and belay on the friction of the rope on the grass (which is considerable) as there are no other belays.
FA. Ben Wintringham, Marion Wintringham 15.11.1969