Matchless

3 Stars
Pumpy
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
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A legendary Culm Coast line that just about stays free enough of vegetation in its upper third to retain its status. The climbing is extremely sustained and the positions are fly-on-the-wall like
Start below the thin crack-system that shoots up to a stuck-on pancake of rock high up near the right arete. Photo on page 109.
50m. Gain a ledge at 3m from the right. From the left end of the ledge, climb the thin crack, past a peg, to better holds and gear. Continue up the crack before stepping right to another crack just below the pancake. Pass the pancake on its left side and continue directly up the wall on good, but spaced holds to the top. The original finish stepped right onto the top of the pancake and finished up the arete. Both finishes are vegetated.
FA. Iain Peters, P.Freeman 3.7.1979

USER COMMENTS

Don't agree that this route is particularly sustained. The start is a bit, but not for long. The peg is ok and there are decent small wires. HVS is more like it.
Tom Last - 18/May/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 4
    hard E2 0 of 2
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