E2 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Sugar Magnolia < Tydomin  |  Caravanserai > None >>

Suffered from a rock fall and now loose and unstable although it has been climbed since the rock fall. It was the finest pitch at Compass Point and one of the Culm Coast's enduring classics. Start right of the earth ramp below a large pocket at 4m. Easily gain a massive pocket and then climb to a peg up and to the left. Continue up with conviction to another large pocket and peg. Move out of the pocket leftwards with difficulty and gain the final shallow pocket, peg. Take the wall above past a further peg to the top. Awkward belays on the backside of the ridge. Descend by scrambling left an abseiling from stakes.
FA. Keith Darbyshire, Dave Garner 1974


Low in the grade for E2 & probably 5b
Charles Moreton - 07/Sep/11

The back of the fin is collapsing so although the route still looks available the top belay has gone and the back of the fin is cracking and becoming undercut. Do not climb. The whole section of the crag from the descent ramp to the landward end is now unstable. See comments for Caravanserai as well.
miket - 13/Apr/15

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  • Route Grade Votings

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