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A wildly positioned final pitch. The first two pitches can be wet, and under these conditions it is better to abseil to the large belay ledge at the start of the top pitch. Start at a wide crack in the short wall at the base of the arete..
1) 4a, 11m. Climb the wide crack and continue to a grassy ledge with a huge iron ring and belay..
2) 4b 11m. Unprotected. Move up left on sloping hand-ledges, past a loose block, to a large block and belay ledge below the corner just left of the arete..
3) 5c, 12m. Make a series of long moves past 2 bolts to the small overhang, peg. Pull out left to a good crack and make one last reach past a peg for the top.
FFA. Andy Grieve 19.9.1986
FAA. Len Benstead, Denis Morrod 21.3.1970