Il Duce Top 50

3 Stars
Strong
Fluttery
 E5 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< None < Vagabond  |  King's Arete > None >>


The central corner that rises from the overhung ledge at the base of High Cliff is a stunning line. Technically reasonable but the commitment required earns it the grade. The nature of the climbing and the situation is very serious and this is not a place to get into trouble. Start at the bottom of the rocky ramp that slopes seawards below the gearing-up spot. Photo on page 167..
1) 5a, 20m. Traverse left to a protruding ledge and continue around an arete to a large platform beneath roofs and the main corner as for Vagabond..
2) 6a, 20m. From the right-hand side of the large platform, climb the right-hand of two converging cracks past a short, hard section to better holds beneath the roof. Committing moves leftwards gain a precarious rest in a chimney on the lip of the roof. Move up this and its left wall to a small stance..
3) 5c, 20m. Climb the main corner, moving left around a bulge, to a good ledge and belay..
4) 4c, 24m. Climb the crack in the right wall of the corner for 10m then step back left and follow the groove to a roof. Move rightwards easily but on deteriorating rock until a fault-line leads up to the top.
FA. Pat Littlejohn, Keith Darbyshire 23.4.1972
FFA. Tom Jones, Roger Hughes 1980

USER COMMENTS

Pitch 1. The crux is often wet, if so the move is desperate. Bold moves between the chimney (headjam rest!) and the stance.
Graham Hoey - 21/Aug/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 9
    hard E6 0 of 3
    E6 0 of 3
    easy E6 0 of 3
    hard E5 1 of 3
    E5 1 of 3
    easy E5 1 of 3
    hard E4 0 of 3
    E4 0 of 3
    easy E4 0 of 3
    hard 6b 0 of 3
    6b 0 of 3
    easy 6b 0 of 3
    hard 6a 2 of 3
    6a 1 of 3
    easy 6a 0 of 3
    hard 5c 0 of 3
    5c 0 of 3
    easy 5c 0 of 3
    3 Stars 3 of 3
    2 Stars 0 of 3
    1 Star 0 of 3
    0 Stars 0 of 3
    Bag of ..... 0 of 3

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