Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 9
The central corner that rises from the overhung ledge at the base of High Cliff is a stunning line. Technically reasonable but the commitment required earns it the grade. The nature of the climbing and the situation is very serious and this is not a place to get into trouble. Start at the bottom of the rocky ramp that slopes seawards below the gearing-up spot.</br>1) 5a, 20m. Traverse left to a protruding ledge and continue around an arete to a large platform beneath roofs and the main corner as for Vagabond.</br>2) 6a, 20m. From the right-hand side of the large platform, climb the right-hand of two converging cracks past a short, hard section to better holds beneath the roof. Committing moves leftwards gain a precarious rest in a chimney on the lip of the roof. Move up this and its left wall to a small stance.</br>3) 5c, 20m. Climb the main corner, moving left around a bulge, to a good ledge and belay.</br>4) 4c, 24m. Climb the crack in the right wall of the corner for 10m then step back left and follow the groove to a roof. Move rightwards easily but on deteriorating rock until a fault-line leads up to the top.
Pitch 1. The crux is often wet, if so the move is desperate. Bold moves between the chimney (headjam rest!) and the stance.