<< Vagabond < Il Duce | None > None >>
Steep climbing in great positions on Il Duce's right arete. The climbing becomes easier but the rock deteriorates in quality as height is gained. Start at the bottom of the rocky ramp that slopes seaward below the gearing-up spot..
1) 5a, 10m. Traverse left and take a belay on a protruding ledge..
2) 5c, 40m. Climb straight up to a small ledge at 7m using positive holds but with minimal gear. Move diagonally left to the arete and ascend it to a narrow ledge. Move rightwards along the ledge (possible belay) then diagonally back left to the arete again. Follow this to a short steep crack on the right which leads to a belay in a niche..
3) 5b, 30m. Climb steeply on good holds to the right then move back left towards the arete and continue up to reach an easy traverse-line (junction with Il Duce). Follow this rightwards to a fault-line that leads up to the top. Not in current guidebook.
FA. Andy Meyers, Mick Fowler 3.7.1982