 Black Magic
| 3 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E5 6a |
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Adjacent Routes
<< None < Eroica | Darkinbad the Brightdayler > Wall of Spirits >>
A wonderful route tracing a sustained path up the Great Wall on immaculate rock. Take lots of small wires. Start 5m right of Eroica at a short high-angled slab beneath a thin crack-system.
Photo on page 162..
1) 6a, 46m. Step up onto the high-angled slab and move up left to the thin cracks. Climb the thin crack-system to two short left to right-leaning cracks - peg. Move up the wall rightwards past a distinct white quartz patch and enter the very slim left-facing corner above. Follow the corner to a tricky exit onto easier-angled rock. Work up the slabby, lichen splashed wall to a stance beneath a leaning corner..
2) 5c, 20m. Climb the corner and steep flake to an easier exit.
FA. Steve Monks, Jane Wilkinson 27.5.1987
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