Siren's Cry

2 Stars
Fluttery
 E6 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Darkinbad the Brightdayler < Wall of Spirits  |  None > None >>


Stunning rock but very serious climbing that is reliant on the ageing pegs. Start on a huge boulder left of the big corner on the right-hand side of the Great Wall..
1) 6a, 40m. Pull onto the easy-angled wall and head for a protruding peg. Traverse left below this, thin tape on low spike, to and up a shallow rising rampline to a point beneath twin pegs. Make thin, bold moves up to the pegs and continue up the fingery wall above them for 5m to better holds and some wires. Move on up the still steep wall to another peg. Climb an easier shallow groove to a good jug, and move right to a corner and climb it to a stance on ledges..
2) 5c, 30m. Climb leftwards to meet the top pitch of Black Magic and finish up this.
FA. Richard 'Nipper" Harrison 8.1983

USER COMMENTS

One of the pegs on the crux section is a stainless steel one so should be in good nick.
Graham Hoey - 21/Aug/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 3
    hard E7 0 of 1
    E7 0 of 1
    easy E7 0 of 1
    hard E6 0 of 1
    E6 0 of 1
    easy E6 0 of 1
    hard E5 1 of 1
    E5 0 of 1
    easy E5 0 of 1
    hard 6b 0 of 1
    6b 0 of 1
    easy 6b 0 of 1
    hard 6a 0 of 1
    6a 1 of 1
    easy 6a 0 of 1
    hard 5c 0 of 1
    5c 0 of 1
    easy 5c 0 of 1
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    2 Stars 1 of 1
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