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The arching corner is a magnificent line and is climbed in two very long and sustained pitches. Some big cams and nuts are needed to protect the first pitch. Start at the base of the corner..
1) 5a, 42m. Ascend the corner until it starts to steepen and widen. Climb the wide crack to a flake from where easier climbing gains a big ledge on the left and a belay..
2) 5b, 50m. Climb the corner and its subsidiary to its end. Traverse right across the slab on small holds stepping down at a steepening to a pillar of compact red rock and better holds. Move up to small ledges (the site of an old belay) and continue for 5m before stepping right to a weakness in the overhang above. Climb up this and the easy groove above to the top..
2a) 4c, 50m. An easier but poorer finish moves left around the arete from the belay ledge and then climbs up the wall above the edge of the arete on big, but at times dubious, holds to a grassy final 10m. Not in current guidebook.
FA. Pat Littlejohn, Steve Jones 1974 (Finishing up the wall left of the upper corner) 2nd pitch climbed by Rowland Edwards et al 8.1979
x2 number 4 cams and x1 number 5 would make the first pitch an easier undertaking. Surprised at how bold the top pitch was with some very long run outs. Brilliant adventure climbing.
Shane Ohly - 29/Apr/10
A stunning adventure and one of the finest routes I've ever done. We had a 100 metre static and you get down to the base with rope to spare - probably 95 metres max, not 110 as the guide says.
I led pitch 1 and had 2 friend 3.5s, 2 friend 4s, and a camalot 4. This was not excessive!
Kevin led the direct finish which was very character building. He did find lots of good gear though, didn't notice any long runouts?
Paul Evans - 21/Aug/10
Surprised to find that this was a choss route in exactly the same vein as Gogarth South Stack - identical rock at times. Excellent, but would certainly warrant E3 at Gogarth, this is much harder than Kalahari, Red Wall, Creeping Lemma etc.
Jon Stewart - 04/Jul/14
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