Journey to Ixtlan
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A very spectacular and exposed traverse of the Triple Buttress that has the benefit of being non-tidal and a good distance above the sea at all times. However, the situations are serious and the rock needs careful handling with regard to both the climbing and the setting up of belays. Take plenty of slings for tying-off bollards, spikes and threads. Start above a ramp on the landward side of the descent to the top of C Buttress. Photo on page 165..
1) 22m. Downclimb the easy ramp to a ledge and belay..
2) 4c, 21m. Move down the ramp for a further 5m then climb leftwards up the wall until level with the belay. Move up again before traversing left steeply to the arete and a belay just beyond..
3) 4c, 20m. Step down and move across grooves to a corner. Descend the wall left to an exposed stance and belay on the arete..
4) 4c, 40m. A wild-looking pitch for both leader and second. Traverse into the corner and traverse left across its opposite wall above an overhang to an arete. Move up the arete for 6m to a stance and belay..
5) 4c, 25m. Move up and climb leftwards to reach and climb a diagonal line across the wall until steeper moves lead to a position just before a big corner. Finish straight up via the left-hand side of a block. Stake belay.
FA. Rowland Perriment, C.Owen 2.9.1978
How long has the stake belay been there? I had to resort to a very unconventional belay after topping out on this route a few years ago and I'm pretty certain that I didn't top out in the wrong place
Charles Moreton - 09/Jul/10
I couldn't find the stake belay - I spent so long wandering around the slope looking for it that I was spotted by a couple of other climbers who came down to help. They couldn't find it either! In the end I settled for a couple of wires in one of the little rocky bluffs which were better than nothing and sat in the grassy hollow.
Andy Hobson - 04/May/11
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