America

3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
 E4 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< None < None  |  Guernica > Mausoleum >>


A towering, adventurous route that combines diverse climbing with a serious situation. Dry conditions are essential. The base is reached via abseil or, in calm sea conditions, at low tide via a sea-level traverse. Start on sea level ledges at the left edge of the lower wall below a corner. Photo on page 177..
1) 5b, 26m. Climb leftwards, easy but serious, to an old peg on the left. Traverse right two metres and climb a short, bold wall to reach the safety of a niche. Follow the awkward, wide crack above to its end at a stance and spike belay..
2) 5b, 40m. A poorly protected pitch. Move up the slab to where it starts to steepen and move left towards its edge. Climb up and pass a blanker section on the right, to reach a dodgy flake. Move left, back towards the arete, and follow the slab to a stance below the upper buttress..
3) 5c, 25m. Climb up a groove on the left and enter a corner above it. Move up a short way and traverse the steep wall on the right, around an arete, to a steep corner that is climbed to a ledge and a large bird's nest. Move left and climb very steep ground to a ledge. Follow the thin crack above it to the top.
FA. Pat Littlejohn, Keith Darbyshire 16.7.1973

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