Guernica

2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
 E6 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< None < America  |  Mausoleum > Supernatural >>


An awe-inspiring route whose main pitch climbs the central section of the severely-overhanging upper buttress. Start as for pitch 1 of America; or at the stance at the top of its first pitch if the tide or sea conditions do not allow access to the base..
1) 5b, 26m. Pitch 1 of America..
2) 5c, 35m. Move rightwards and climb up the slab to meet the corner formed with the steep upper buttress. Climb the slab to the left of the corner and continue to a stance at a crack on the left side of a large block..
3) 6a, 24m. Move up the slab for 3m and climb the wall to a flat handhold. Traverse right to a large block on the edge of an overhang and ascend a thin crack and shallow groove above to a peg and a shake-out on the right. Committing moves up the overhanging wall leftwards lead to flake holds that are traversed steeply right to a large sloping ledge and belay..
4) 5b, 20m. Move steeply left to a huge niche. From here, traverse left until it is possible to gain a corner above that leads to the top.
FA. Pat Littlejohn, Hugh Clarke 16.5.1982 (1pt)
FFA. Pat Littlejohn 4.1987

USER COMMENTS

Pitch 2 is serious, with little protection. Pitch 3 has good protection where it matters.
Graham Hoey - 21/Aug/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 3
    hard E7 0 of 1
    E7 0 of 1
    easy E7 0 of 1
    hard E6 0 of 1
    E6 1 of 1
    easy E6 0 of 1
    hard E5 0 of 1
    E5 0 of 1
    easy E5 0 of 1
    hard 6b 0 of 1
    6b 0 of 1
    easy 6b 0 of 1
    hard 6a 0 of 1
    6a 1 of 1
    easy 6a 0 of 1
    hard 5c 0 of 1
    5c 0 of 1
    easy 5c 0 of 1
    3 Stars 1 of 1
    2 Stars 0 of 1
    1 Star 0 of 1
    0 Stars 0 of 1
    Bag of ..... 0 of 1

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