Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 3
An awe-inspiring route whose main pitch climbs the central section of the severely-overhanging upper buttress. Start as for pitch 1 of America; or at the stance at the top of its first pitch if the tide or sea conditions do not allow access to the base.</br>1) 5b, 26m. Pitch 1 of America.</br>2) 5c, 20m. Move rightwards and climb up the slab to meet the corner formed with the steep upper buttress. Climb the slab to the left of the corner and continue to a stance at a crack on the left side of a large block.</br>3) 6a, 20m. Move up the slab for 3m and climb the wall to a flat handhold. Traverse right to a large block on the edge of an overhang and ascend a thin crack and shallow groove above to a peg and a shake-out on the right. Committing moves up the overhanging wall leftwards lead to flake holds that are traversed steeply right to a large sloping ledge and belay.</br>4) 5b, 15m. Move steeply left to a huge niche. From here, traverse left until it is possible to gain a corner above that leads to the top.
Pitch 2 is serious, with little protection. Pitch 3 has good protection where it matters.