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A stern test of both mind and strength on one of Avon's most impressive walls. Start about 45m up the path from the base of the crag at a well-worn gearing-up spot below a tree on a ledge at 3m..
1) 5b, 25m. Climb up vegetated ground above the tree and work easily rightwards to a peg under an overhang. Move down left, then make committing moves up the wall to better holds which lead leftwards again to a small overhang. Move over the overhang rightwards to a small ledge and climb the groove above to a small stance..
2) 5b, 25m. Continue up the groove to an overhang and pull out right and then up into the crack that splits the spectacular final wall. Follow the crack to the left end of the capping overhangs and finish leftwards. Not in current guidebook.
FA. Ed Ward Drummond, Pete Morgan, Cathy Woodhead 5.67 (1pt)
Apart from the first wall, which has a decent peg well to the right, the rest of the first pitch is well-protected. Only just E3. The upper pitch is also well-protected with crux moves before the crack. The crack is no more than HVS 5a.
Graham Hoey - 13/Oct/11
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