| E4 6a|
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Remarkably varied, exposed and sustained climbing from start to finish sets this route firmly in the mold of "modern classic". Start 20m up from the base of the wall on a ledge next to a short slab and below a precarious-looking flake..
1) 5c, 22m. Gain and layback the flake to a ledge. Move up rightwards to a borehole and peg. Climb the borehole via some difficult moves and traverse right to a good ledge and various belays, including an old spike..
2) 6a, 25m. Flip the rope over a spike high on the right for a runner and then make fingery moves direct to a pocket and crack. Climb the crack above the pocket and gain a small ledge, peg. Stand on the ledge and move up the wall to easier ground. Traverse left to a good calcite thread, at the base of an impending corner above. Climb the corner to an awkward stance on a block with various belays..
3) 5c, 23m. Move up right and climb past old bolts to some steep moves on good holds that lead to a prominent peg and small pancake of rock (good thin sling runner). Move up to and over the bulge above and finish leftwards past a short crack and a final steep move to ledges.
FFA. Steve Monks 1979
FAA. Tony Willmott, Dave Hermalin 2.5.1971 (A5)
The peg at the borehole on pitch one has gone. This makes the pitch a serious one at E4 5c.
On pitch 2, if the sling on the peg in the pocket above the spike is in-situ, don't waste your time trying to flick the ripe over the spike.
Graham Hoey - 21/Aug/10
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