| E4 6a|
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Remarkably varied, exposed and sustained climbing from start to finish sets this route firmly in the mold of "modern classic". Start 20m up from the base of the wall on a ledge next to a short slab and below a precarious-looking flake..
1) 5c, 22m. Gain and layback the flake to a ledge. Move up rightwards to a borehole and peg. Climb the borehole via some difficult moves and traverse right to a good ledge and various belays, including an old spike..
2) 6a, 25m. Flip the rope over a spike high on the right for a runner and then make fingery moves direct to a pocket and crack. Climb the crack above the pocket and gain a small ledge, peg. Stand on the ledge and move up the wall to easier ground. Traverse left to a good calcite thread, at the base of an impending corner above. Climb the corner to an awkward stance on a block with various belays..
3) 5c, 23m. Move up right and climb past old bolts to some steep moves on good holds that lead to a prominent peg and small pancake of rock (good thin sling runner). Move up to and over the bulge above and finish leftwards past a short crack and a final steep move to ledges. Not in current guidebook.
FFA. Steve Monks 1979
FAA. Tony Willmott, Dave Hermalin 2.5.1971 (A5)
The peg at the borehole on pitch one has gone. This makes the pitch a serious one at E4 5c.
On pitch 2, if the sling on the peg in the pocket above the spike is in-situ, don't waste your time trying to flick the ripe over the spike.
Graham Hoey - 21/Aug/10
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