<< Unknown Wall < Amanita Muscarina | New Horizons > Hocus Pocus >>
A steep and exciting journey up the very centre of the wall - a Gorge classic. Start 20m left of the huge corner at a well-trodden patch of ground clear of brambles, beneath a bolt at 9m..
1) 5c, 26m. Move up shale covered ledges to the bolt. Make an awkward short traverse left and up to better holds and another bolt above. Trend right and move up into a vertical borehole and good small wires. Move up to the top of the borehole, peg, and traverse steeply left to a grassy ledge and pull onto it. Move up right to another good ledge with a double staple bolt belay..
2) 5b, 22m. Clip a ring peg above the ledge on the right and make surprisingly difficult moves up the wall and onto a hollow flake/ledge. Move up leftwards and clip a peg before traversing left on good pockets to a peg and deep pocket (just above a prominent metal spike). Climb a crack above the pocket and gain a small ledge, peg. Stand on the ledge and move up the wall to easier ground. Traverse left past a good calcite thread, and the base of the impending corner above, and make steep moves up past a couple of pegs to a hanging belay on a spike and good nuts..
3) 5b, 22m. Climb rightwards on great holds with feet above the overhang past a thread to a harder section where the wall turns smoother. Gain a small pancake of rock (good thin-sling runner) and prominent peg. Now gain the right-to-left sloping ramp and follow this on rounded but plentiful holds to a steep exit near its end. A wildly exposed pitch. Not in current guidebook.
FA. Terry Gloag, P.Johnston 5.1972 (1pt)
An exercise in head-climbing. Never very hard technically, but the height & exposure will test you! Immaculate.
Chris Parson - 10/Sep/12
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