Yellow Edge

3 Stars
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
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A steep and exciting journey up the very centre of the wall - a Gorge classic. Start 20m left of the huge corner at a well-trodden patch of ground clear of brambles, beneath a bolt at 9m.</br>1) 5c, 26m. Move up shale covered ledges to the bolt. Make an awkward short traverse left and up to better holds and another bolt above. Trend right and move up into a vertical borehole and good small wires. Move up to the top of the borehole, peg, and traverse steeply left to a grassy ledge and pull onto it. Move up right to another good ledge with a double staple bolt belay. </br>2) 5b, 22m. Clip a ring peg above the ledge on the right and make surprisingly difficult moves up the wall and onto a hollow flake/ledge. Move up leftwards and clip a peg before traversing left on good pockets to a peg and deep pocket (just above a prominent metal spike). Climb a crack above the pocket and gain a small ledge, peg. Stand on the ledge and move up the wall to easier ground. Traverse left past a good calcite thread, and the base of the impending corner above, and make steep moves up past a couple of pegs to a hanging belay on a spike and good nuts.</br>3) 5b, 22m. Climb rightwards on great holds with feet above the overhang past a thread to a harder section where the wall turns smoother. Gain a small pancake of rock (good thin-sling runner) and prominent peg. Now gain the right-to-left sloping ramp and follow this on rounded but plentiful holds to a steep exit near its end. A wildly exposed pitch.
FA. Terry Gloag, P.Johnston 5.1972 (1pt)


An exercise in head-climbing. Never very hard technically, but the height & exposure will test you! Immaculate.
Chris Parson - 10/Sep/12

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