New Horizons

2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Amanita Muscarina < Yellow Edge  |  Hocus Pocus > M1 >>


The huge arete on the right-hand side of the lower wall is a good but slightly bold route. Start 3m to the left of the arete..
1) 5c, 23m. Move up to the base of a small corner and traverse right across the bottom of a grey slab to the arete. Ascend the arete to an overhang, peg. Make a perplexing move through the overhang via a short hanging corner and climb a little way above to a ledge and a belay on the arete..
2) 5c, 22m. Move right and climb a short crack and wall above the stance to a thread (thin sling needed). Move left to the arete and make delicate moves to a peg from where easier climbing up the arete finishes at the apex of the lower wall.
FA. Richard Harrison, Andy Hall 7.8.1977

USER COMMENTS

The second pitch is probably more 5b than 5c.
Graham Hoey - 13/Oct/11

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